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I woke up this morning with the sudden urge to go surfing. And it looks like tomorrow would be good for it, too. I wish I lived within striking distance of a beach with good waves, but it's a good three or four hours to Devon, and at least three to south Wales (it may only be a hundred miles or so, but the british road network is less of a transport system and more a storage solution for angry people in metal boxes. Sometimes with surfboards on the roof). That means it's a case of renting a place for the weekend (or camping, if it's the summer and not raining constantly, so that means renting a place), and the logistics of getting together people to go surfing is a nightmare. Just about the only people who I can go with would be my sister and her husband, who are busy most of the time. Wish I could go by myself, but that would be kind of dangerous to go out on my own.
Mm. It'd be bloody cold, but I just want to slide down the face of an unbroken wave again. When you get out of the water, if you've been in too long, you sometimes keep feeling the rocking motion of the swells passing beneath you, like breaths. I keep wanting that feeling now.
Mm. It'd be bloody cold, but I just want to slide down the face of an unbroken wave again. When you get out of the water, if you've been in too long, you sometimes keep feeling the rocking motion of the swells passing beneath you, like breaths. I keep wanting that feeling now.